VStabi Pioneer of Flybarless

In the following pages we would like to go into the special features of setting up scale helicopters using VBar Control touch/EVO and VBar EVO.

VBar Control touch and VBar Control EVO are currently the same in terms of content and menu navigation - so it is not important which of the two systems is used.

Of course you can also use a VBar Control classic, the menu items are arranged slightly differently. The Classic is no longer being developed further - so you have to expect that there will be differences in content in the future.

It is similar with the VBars. The VBar NEO has now been discontinued. The VBar EVO already has a few advantages over the NEO (further developed sensors, newer control circuit, flight phase-dependent fine adjustment of the rotation, higher servo frequencies, telemetry also on the slave, etc.) and will be further developed in the future. Basically, NEO works here too, the thing with the rotation when flying in has to be set globally in the setup first anyway, or if you have 2 NEO as master-slave, you have to follow the instructions for the NEO.

What we shouldn't do, however, is to equip an expensive scaler with an old VBar or VBar mini. This hardware is just as outdated as the control circuit installed on it in the firmware.

For these reasons, we have therefore decided on a combination of VBar EVO and VBar Control touch/EVO in our example here. Another recommendation would be to install two EVO (when buying, one the cheaper EVO VBasic and one EVO VBar with at least Pro Upgrade) in different places - one (VBasic) programmed as a servo extender to always ensure the best possible reception. Of course, the antennas are all aligned differently.

Please understand that we are only describing one of the possible ways of setting up here. There are certainly variations from the past, especially with collective and servo center - but with today's powerful and fast digital servos, you can safely put these aside and concentrate on the procedure described here.

Otherwise, we naturally assume that a scale helicopter has a safe power supply. For us, safe means no mechanical or electronical switches. All of these are possible sources of failure and are subject to voltage loss (the switch from a well-known manufacturer had a 2V loss!).

Simply a good BEC or good RC battery, 2S or 3S, a connector plug for switching on. Servos for 8V / 12V are a given. Today, perhaps even 12V is more likely for new builds. Add a Mikado buffer, maybe even 2 of them - and we are more than "safe"