VStabi & Logo-FAQ – Table of Contents
How do registration, login and update work again?
I already have a login name and a password, but they do no longer work ... what can I do?
Probably your login name is from the old software-shop (mikado-heli.com.hk).
We respect your privacy: no user data have been transferred to the new shop (mikado-heli.de).
Please register anew, make sure you use the same e-mail-address as before, sind the e-mail-address is the key to your devices. ^
My VBar is dead after I tried to update. What can I do?
Do I have to download the driver separately?
No, the current driver is always part of the actual software download. On a windows machine, after the installation you find it here C:\Program Files\VStabi_53\drivers, on a Mac it's the installer SiLabs_VStabi Driver_2.9 ^
My computer does not connect to my VBar, what can I do?
My event log shows low voltage warnings all the time, what does this mean?
I want to send my VBar for service, I have issues with heli parts ... where should I go?
It's always a good idea to check out our forums first, or to call/send a message—many issues can be solved quickly without having to wait or without extra costs.
You need to to be logged in to this site to access the VBar service form or to open a non-VBar service request. With the Heli service request, a member of our staff will be back to you asap to negotiate the next steps, with the Vbar service request we wait for the device to arrive at our shop before we get back to you. ^
How long does a service case take?
VBar service cases are finished within 2-3 working days after the device has arrived at our shop. With heli parts we try to be fast as well. If a motor or ESC needs to be serviced, it can take longer since we possibly have to foward it to the manufacturer for service. ^
When moving the tail stick the pitch slider reaches max. after 2/3 of input.
Please check the transmitter settings instruction.
Stick movement and servo movement are no longer in direct relation. Moving the stick will tell the vbar to move the helicopter, though the helicopter is on the ground it does not follow this command -> vbar gives more output to the servo. So at small stick movements we have full servo travel. ^
The tail pushrod is too long, the tail pitch lever is not 90°!
There are 'heavy vibration' entries in my log?
Vibration analysis is possible during hoover flight with a bluetooth module. In normal flight there are always dynamical forces from the rotorhead (blades) the will cause vibrations. This is normal physics. ^
The main gear has axial play on the main shaft?
Axial play is a characteristic for the herringbone gear of the LOGO models. Caused by the manual mounting of the free wheel unit to the main gear there's always some kind of wobble in the main gear. And the free wheel opens and closes some dozend to hundred times a flight. To get perfect alignment to the pinion we have this axial play on the main shaft. Eliminating this play will cause enormous wear and tear of the main gear or even failure of the free wheel. ^
The tail rotor grips have some play!
Pending to the higher rpms on the tail and cf tail blades theres no more dampening at the tail rotor. CF tail blades are made by hand and always have minimu differences in weight and pitch. This will cause high fequency vibrations to the tail. So by adding a small play to the tail blade grip we have a dynamical dampening at the tail: the more rpms the harder the dampening. This gives a smoother running tail with reduced vibration. ^
The swash plate has to much play / clearance!
Normal play can be self-adjusted with the small screw in the swash plate. But be careful not to overtighten the screw, this will cause a rough running ball bearing! Small axial play in the swash plate bearing is normal, it does not have any effects on precicion or pitch function. ^
I see low voltage warnings in my log file, with other flybarless systems I never had any issues?
Many other flybarless systems do not log low voltage or other events, during flight. So you can not really tell what happens in flight. Third party data loggers or telemetry systems are often too slow to detect brief and sharp declines.
I use a swash plate levelling tool—is it necessary to do a trim flight?
As there are some physical effects (e.g. think about a tail rotor thrust compensation with aileron) the swash won't stay absolutely levelled in a hover. So at all it isn't necessary to use such tools, a human eye is precise enough with the right manual. Also flying w/o a trim flight is no problem at all. If you have e.g. steady hover pirouettes in flight moving around itself the trim flight can improve this of course. If the pilot won't mention such thigs or he can deal with them - the trim flight is not necessary. ^
How to adjust the belt tension properly?
You can more or less only adjust the belt tension properly at the ambient temperature you want to fly in. Depending on the model, the lenght of the tail boom changes by up to 1 mm, only by temperature changes. So you should let the model settle for about 15 minutes at the current ambient temperature, then (re-)adjust the belt tension if necessary. The belt should be tightened in a way so you can still depress it a bit. If set too high, the bearings may wear earlier. If in doubt, rather leave the belt a little on the loose side. If you find the belt skipping (you hear it), the tension is too low.
A good way is to hang the model by the rearmost bolt at the (loosened) tail rotor housing, using a battery velcro strap, with batteries installed. The weight gives a good starting point.
Usually it is sufficient to tighten the belt twice a year, once when it gets colder in winter and once again when it gets warmer again in summer. Since the change usually is less than 1 mm, the impact on the tail pushrod lenght is usually negligible. You can always do a trim flight to get the center position where it belongs. ^
How to adjust the gear mesh properly?
Move the motor with the pinion on it to the main gear, with only one screw set finger tight. Rotate the maing gear a couple of times slowly. Doing this, a very small backlash develops. After tightening the second screw, check the gear mesh at at least four positions on the main gear (which will most probably never run 100 % true because of the one way bearing set in manually, and production tolerances with the molded main gear. If you move the main gear ever so slightly, a small tic-tic should be tangible.
Don't try setting the gear mesh with a strip of paper between the gears: because of the herring bone gear, the gear mesh will be way to loose then. ^